People Of Oppo I Need Your Help! Car Wash Related

"Vicente Esteve" (vicente-esteve) 11/16/2014 at 16:24 • Filed to: Car Care

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Today I decided to wash my car after weeks of the constant rain that has miserable-ized the whole city. The sun came out, and I went out to give it a bath. When I finished, I noticed grey water marks on the hod of the car that wouldn't come out. I cleaned with the micro-fiber towel, I used soap again, more water and even a spray-on wax I had bought for future use. Nothing. The stains have stayed on the hood, and I realized they were from a mud splash that another car gave me when it was raining.

I don't know what else to try, so I knew that someone in here would know the answer and tell me how to remove those horrible mud marks. I take care of my car very much and this sort of thing just pains me!

All those little grey drops won't come out of the paint! Thanks in advance for the advice.

GeorgeyBoy > Vicente Esteve 11/16/2014 at 16:28

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Try some clay. If not get out your da.

JustWaitingForAMate > Vicente Esteve 11/16/2014 at 16:30

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Claybar and quick detailer.

Vicente Esteve > GeorgeyBoy 11/16/2014 at 16:37

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thanks, pardon my ignorance, but what is da?

Vicente Esteve > JustWaitingForAMate 11/16/2014 at 16:37

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Thanks! I don't have time to try it right now, but will do

ViperGuy21 > Vicente Esteve 11/16/2014 at 16:38

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Do this in this order to achieve detailed exterior after wash:

1) Clay(ex: meguirs clay kit~$20)

2) Detailimg spray(ex: meguirs quick detailer~comes with clay kit, on its own ~$6-10)

3) Machine compound(ex: meguirs ultimate compound~$10 and use with dual action polisher)

4) Machine polish(ex: meguirs ultomato polish~$10 and use with dual action polisher)

5) Wax

6) Spray wax

7) Detail spray

But if you just want to fix those spots, do those things starting at #1 until you succeed.

Hope that helped!

GeorgeyBoy > Vicente Esteve 11/16/2014 at 16:38

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Dual action polisher only if the clay doesn't lift it out. Remember to apply wax after you clay.

FrankenBlaster > Vicente Esteve 11/16/2014 at 16:39

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Dual action buffer. It's like other buffers, but the pad oscillates on 2 different axes to prevent from burning the paint.

Vicente Esteve > ViperGuy21 11/16/2014 at 16:49

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It did help!

Vicente Esteve > GeorgeyBoy 11/16/2014 at 16:50

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I appreciate it a lot!

JustWaitingForAMate > Vicente Esteve 11/16/2014 at 16:52

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Just remember to be liberal with the detailer when using the clay, you don't want it to stick and streak.

Axial > ViperGuy21 11/16/2014 at 16:54

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Pretty much this. Meguiar's Ultimate Compound will fix almost anything, save hard water spots that have had years to set in and fuck your clear-coat. Polish after to remove the resulting swirls, and you're good to go.

There's also the professional grade stuff, but that also involves more steps as well as more money. I haven't tried this, yet, since haven't had a car in good enough shape to really warrant such splurging.

ViperGuy21 > Axial 11/16/2014 at 17:15

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I've done it a couple of times on my 10yr old car and it make a big difference

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > Vicente Esteve 11/16/2014 at 18:07

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This post is perfect! I am looking to learn detailing and the replies on here are great. Thanks for posting. From my understanding clay will clean that off.

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > ViperGuy21 11/16/2014 at 18:09

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What is the difference between compound and polish?

Axial > ViperGuy21 11/16/2014 at 18:11

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Looks great! Transition from glass to paint is all but seamless!

I give my Corvettes the big treatment at least twice a year. Full on wash, clay, compound, polish, wax, tire shine. It really does help. If the paint didn't have a chip here and there on each, I'd probably win awards using this stuff.

I just don't know how much of a difference the professional grade materials make over the consumer products. Maybe when I make it big and can afford a full body-off style restoration on the ZR-1, I'll invest, but for now the consumer stuff is just fine.

I do want to try a different wax, though. Meguiar's Ultimate Wax is good, but I want to see what a full synthetic can do.

ViperGuy21 > Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) 11/16/2014 at 18:11

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Compound is a lot more aggressive and takes out the big stuff, Polish takes out the little stuff compound leaves behind and does more for clarity than compound does

ViperGuy21 > Axial 11/16/2014 at 18:51

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The paint chips suck don't they! I've only had my car since July(it's my first car) and I've done 2 big time details(only the second one really produced amazing results cause I developed the right techniques). I can't fix everything, but I've made a world of difference. I just use the Ultimate liquid wax and it works really well. For waxing I like to hand apply and machine buff b/c I think that gives better results, whereas for compounding and polishing I do the opposite because you can't get any real results hand applying. It's just a pain to hand buff those cause they dry so fast.

What 'Vettes do you have?

Axial > Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) 11/16/2014 at 18:53

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Compound is what you use to clear up hazing, light scratches, and spotting (to a degree). Polish (which you have to use after compound if you do use compound), on the other hand, takes out the swirls left behind by washing and using compound. It does the most surface of surface things, and is the last thing you should do before a wax to get maximum shine.

ViperGuy21 > Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) 11/16/2014 at 18:54

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Compound is much more aggressive and gets the big stuff out, whereas polish gets the small stuff out compounding leaves behind. Not everything will come out the first time so you will have to do it periodically for a while, but it always makes a huge difference no matter what.

They both improve color clarity, depth and shine, but polish does more for that.

Make sure to do them in order I said above to achieve best results though.

ViperGuy21 > Axial 11/16/2014 at 18:56

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And thanks, by the way! I wish I had some chrome polish and aluminum polish for the chrome trim and aluminum wheels though. Any other tips on wheel detailing?

Axial > ViperGuy21 11/16/2014 at 19:06

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Congratulations on your first car! She (or is yours a he? Some people are like that...) looks way better than my first ever did. I was not kind to it, only ever giving it a bath once. I was not a car person back then, and in hindsight it makes me feel bad. Paint chips are indeed the worst but, happily, sheet-molding compound doesn't rust. :p

My babies are a black 1996 LT4 and a 1990 ZR-1.

Example A:

Example B:

Sorry for the potato shots. First one was on a phone not mine and the second one is on a new phone whose [far superior] camera I haven't figured out how to work, yet.

I do all of my application by hand. I don't have a DA, and I'm too afraid of borking things up if I get one. It takes me two days to do everything from washing to standing back to look at the final result, but it's worth it, especially on the black car. The nice thing about red is that, even when dirty, it still looks good! :D

Axial > ViperGuy21 11/16/2014 at 19:11

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I'm still really learning on wheels. In my case, cleaning the wheels is difficult because they have a machined face, and any sort of polishing will take that away. Since yours appear to be painted, or at least media-blasted and then clear-coated, I think a wheel brush might be fine to really scrub the crap away. For metal trim, I've heard great things about Mother's Aluminum polish.

As for chrome...well...I don't know diddly about chrome. I think chrome is silly and should instead be replaced by polished aluminum in every application where chrome is still used.

ViperGuy21 > Axial 11/16/2014 at 20:25

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It's a she because I am a man.

Nice cars man, and don't worry bout the shots, all my shots are with an iPotato.

The DA is a really good idea. The one I have was only like $20 an works decent enough to produce significantly better results than hand applying. With a da, you don't have to worry about burning through the paint because of the oscillation and the clutch mechanism. I highly recommend getting one. It will greatly reduce time used to detail.

ViperGuy21 > Axial 11/16/2014 at 20:28

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They aren't painted, so I think I might try waxing and an aluminum polish. For the chrome I might look at some chrome polish or just leave it. I'm not a huge fan of chrome, but I didn't build the car. But luckily there is only a little chrome trim for accent design on it.

And lastly, do you do any engine detailing? I kinda want to try it, but I figure I will screw something up.

Axial > ViperGuy21 11/16/2014 at 20:55

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Engine detailing is a whole different ballgame. You have to really know your engine compartment so you don't accidentally get something wet or blast it out of position. I've done a little bit of detailing in my engine bay, but I've never gone whole-hog on it. These days, I typically just use the Back to Black stuff on the black plastic inside the engine bay, and that is a good way to spruce the whole thing up (hood liner, wheel wells, hoses) without spending too much time. Just do a preliminary wipe-down/dry-brushing of everything before application.

To really clean it, you're going to need Special Green (though remove it pronto after application if you've got a lot of aluminum in that bay), an assortment of brushes, and days to spend getting every nook and cranny. Brake cleaner also helps remove caked on crud, and you'll want some metal polish if you want those pieces to shine.

As for the DA, I may eventually get one but, for now, doing it by hand is fine because I'm not exactly old and the cars are small enough that it doesn't make doing so unreasonable. Also have more pressing concerns, like new oil cooler lines and a new wiper motor. D:

Finally, beware polishing your wheels. They are probably clear-coated, and you'll have to strip that away before you do anything else. Polishing them will also remove that satin/matte look and replace it with a reflective, mirror-like finish that you may not want. If all you are interested in doing is removing grit and grime, then nothing replaces old-fashioned elbow grease and a good set of bristles. Waxing after cleaning is not a bad idea.

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > ViperGuy21 11/16/2014 at 20:58

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Do you have a link to the DA that you use? I am looking for a cheap one that works well.

ViperGuy21 > Axial 11/16/2014 at 22:24

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Thanks for the tips! Experience from real people is just as valuable as videos and professional instructions

ViperGuy21 > Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) 11/16/2014 at 22:33

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I believe this is the one I have:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-…

But I would definately do some research on other various ones first. I only have this because my dad bought it and never used it. It works, but I imagine that it isn't the best, even for the price point.

Also, be very careful with the foam applicator bonnet, they rip very easily and it's almost impossible to find replacements.

Check out the website Autogeek.net for really good detailing tips and tricks. They make really great videos with a professional detailer and have really good step by step instructions on detailing. They really helped(and still do help)me a lot.

Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) > ViperGuy21 11/17/2014 at 06:29

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Well that one says "random orbital". Is that somehow different from da?

ViperGuy21 > Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) 11/17/2014 at 07:07

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No, da means it oscillates and spins. It's the same thing

Vicente Esteve > Wrong Wheel Drive (41%) 11/17/2014 at 11:50

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Haha I was scared at first, but people are very helpful here.